{"id":3801,"date":"2026-07-29T06:25:48","date_gmt":"2026-07-29T03:25:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/zabugorshiki.com\/en\/climbing-grades-explained\/"},"modified":"2026-07-29T06:25:48","modified_gmt":"2026-07-29T03:25:48","slug":"climbing-grades-explained","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zabugorshiki.com\/en\/climbing-grades-explained\/","title":{"rendered":"Climbing Grades Explained: the 1A-6B Alpine System"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Almaty is one of very few two-million cities on earth where genuine alpine summits start 40-50 minutes from downtown. The Maloalmatinskoe gorge above Shymbulak is the local training ground for mountaineers and climbers, with everything from walk-up peaks to world-class walls. To read any route description here, you need to understand one thing first: the grading system. This guide explains the 1A-6B alpine scale used across Kazakhstan and the former USSR &#8211; with real local routes as examples &#8211; and how the French sport-climbing scale differs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Two systems, two different questions<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Alpine grades (1A-6B) rate the <em>whole route<\/em>: length, terrain, weather exposure, hazards, autonomy. Sport-climbing grades (the French 3a-9b+ scale) rate only the technical difficulty of the climbing itself. A short, safe 6a sport route and a 6A alpine route share nothing but a symbol &#8211; the second one is a multi-day undertaking for professionals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The alpine scale, grade by grade<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">1A-1B: the entry level<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>1A<\/strong> is walking terrain with scree and easy glacier &#8211; trekking to the Tuyuk-Su pass or <a href=\"\/en\/titov-peak\/\">Titov Peak<\/a> belong here. What you need: fitness and confident footwork on rock and scree. <strong>1B<\/strong> adds snow and ice slopes to 30\u00b0 and short rock steps &#8211; Amangeldy from the west, <a href=\"\/en\/peak-pioneer\/\">Pioneer<\/a>, <a href=\"\/en\/peak-molodezhnaya\/\">Molodezhnaya<\/a>. Here ice axe and crampon skills become mandatory: the group moves roped, with running or pitched belays off terrain features, cams and nuts on the steep bits. From 1B up, &#8220;hiking experience&#8221; stops being enough.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">2A-2B: basic technical climbing<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>2A<\/strong> brings ice to 30-40\u00b0 and modest rock &#8211; <a href=\"\/en\/peak-amangeldy\/\">Amangeldy (3,999 m)<\/a> by the south-west ridge, <a href=\"\/en\/peak-abaya\/\">Abay<\/a> by the south ridge. In photos a 1B and a 2A can look identical; on the mountain the difference is enormous &#8211; in length, time and technical demand. <strong>2B<\/strong> raises it again: ice and snow to 45\u00b0, rock sections from 20 m &#8211; <a href=\"\/en\/peak-oktyabrenok\/\">Oktyabrenok<\/a> by the north-west ridge. Now you need solid rope work, self-arrest that actually works, and climbing around French 4b-5a. Nobody goes onto a 2B unroped.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">3A-4B: advanced<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>3A-3B<\/strong> mean steep ice lines and serious rock walls &#8211; <a href=\"\/en\/komsomol-peak\/\">Komsomol<\/a> by the north ridge is the local reference, with 4-5 hours of sustained technical ground. <strong>4A-4B<\/strong> add tall technical walls and mixed terrain &#8211; Oktyabrenok&#8217;s Central Bastion &#8211; with 5-6 hours of hard climbing, steep difficult ice, and rock at French 6a and up. Advanced ice-tool and gear-placement skills are assumed, not taught.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">5A-6B: professional<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">World-class routes: vertical walls, hard ice, nights on the face, aid climbing. Tuyuk-Su has a handful &#8211; the Khrishatogo central-west face goes at 5A (the peak itself has <a href=\"\/en\/peak-khrishatogo\/\">an easier route<\/a> for mortals). These demand everything a climber can have, from elite movement skills to deep theoretical and practical knowledge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The scale at a glance<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table><thead><tr><th>Grade<\/th><th>Terrain<\/th><th>Almaty example<\/th><th>Required skills<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody>\n<tr><td><strong>1A<\/strong><\/td><td>Walking, scree, easy glacier<\/td><td>Tuyuk-Su pass trek, Titov Peak<\/td><td>Fitness, scree footwork<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td><strong>1B<\/strong><\/td><td>Snow\/ice to 30\u00b0, rock steps to 20 m<\/td><td>Amangeldy (west), Pioneer, Molodezhnaya<\/td><td>Ice axe, crampons, roped travel<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td><strong>2A<\/strong><\/td><td>Ice 30-40\u00b0, small rock sections<\/td><td>Amangeldy SW ridge, Abay S ridge<\/td><td>Belay technique, confident cramponing<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td><strong>2B<\/strong><\/td><td>Ice\/snow to 45\u00b0, rock 20+ m<\/td><td>Oktyabrenok NW ridge<\/td><td>Rope work, self-arrest, climbs 4b-5a<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td><strong>3A-3B<\/strong><\/td><td>Steep ice, walls to 50 m<\/td><td>Komsomol N ridge<\/td><td>Advanced climbing, 4-5 h technical<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td><strong>4A-4B<\/strong><\/td><td>Tall walls, mixed terrain<\/td><td>Oktyabrenok Central Bastion<\/td><td>Ice tools, gear placement, rock 6a+, 5-6 h technical<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td><strong>5A-6B<\/strong><\/td><td>Vertical walls, aid, bivouacs<\/td><td>Khrishatogo CW face (5A)<\/td><td>Everything, at a professional level<\/td><\/tr>\n<\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How routes are climbed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Solo<\/strong> &#8211; one climber, with or without protection. The riskiest style.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Simul-climbing<\/strong> &#8211; the rope team moves together, protected by rope tension between them.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Pitched climbing<\/strong> &#8211; leader climbs, partner belays; the standard on technical ground.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Fixed lines<\/strong> &#8211; leader fixes a rope; the team ascends on jumars.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The governing principle everywhere: choose the safest method for yourself and everyone on your rope.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The French sport scale, for comparison<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table><thead><tr><th>Grade<\/th><th>What it feels like<\/th><th>Level<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody>\n<tr><td>3a-3c<\/td><td>Low angles, big holds<\/td><td>Novice<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td>4a-4c<\/td><td>Moderate steepness, good holds<\/td><td>Beginner<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td>5a-5c<\/td><td>Slight overhangs, smaller holds<\/td><td>Recreational<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td>6a-6c<\/td><td>Small holds, overhanging ground<\/td><td>Advanced<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td>7a-7c<\/td><td>Dynamic moves, poor holds<\/td><td>Professional<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td>8a-8c<\/td><td>Extreme difficulty<\/td><td>Elite<\/td><\/tr>\n<tr><td>9a+<\/td><td>The human limit<\/td><td>World class<\/td><\/tr>\n<\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bouldering uses the same scale with one caveat: a 6a boulder problem feels harder than a 6a route, because everything happens in a few maximal moves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Getting ready for graded routes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Fitness:<\/strong> endurance work &#8211; running, cycling, swimming, strength training, uphill running &#8211; plus regular climbing on artificial walls and real rock. <strong>Acclimatisation:<\/strong> above 3,000 m an unadapted body answers with headaches, nausea and weakness; gain altitude progressively and check the <a href=\"\/en\/weather\/\">mountain forecast<\/a> before every outing. <strong>Gear:<\/strong> from 2A-2B you need warm mountaineering boots, membrane clothing, crampons, ice axes, harness, rope, quickdraws and a rack of cams and nuts &#8211; our <a href=\"\/en\/hiking-gear-guide\/\">gear guide<\/a> covers the clothing system, and our <a href=\"\/en\/hiking-safety-almaty\/\">safety guide<\/a> the rest of the discipline.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The right place to learn all of this is a club section or an alpine-camp course, not a YouTube playlist &#8211; see our guide to <a href=\"\/en\/alpinism-almaty\/\">starting alpinism in Almaty<\/a> for where the city&#8217;s schools, sections and the Tuyuk-Su camp fit in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\ud83c\udf92 Other routes<\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"relative\"><div class=\"flex overflow-x-auto pb-6 -mx-4 px-4 sm:px-0 sm:mx-0 sm:overflow-x-visible sm:grid sm:grid-cols-2 gap-8 snap-x 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w-full h-full\" aria-label=\"Kumbelsu Gorge &#038; Lake 13: the Wild Route to Molodezhny Peak\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"w-full h-full object-cover transform group-hover:scale-105 transition-transform duration-500 my-0\" src=\"https:\/\/zabugorshiki.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Molodezhnyi2-1024x576.jpg?v=1785295664\" alt=\"Kumbelsu Gorge &#038; Lake 13: the Wild Route to Molodezhny Peak\" loading=\"lazy\"><div class=\"absolute inset-0 bg-gradient-to-t from-black\/30 to-transparent opacity-0 group-hover:opacity-100 transition-opacity duration-300\"><\/div><\/a><\/div><div class=\"p-4\"><h3 class=\"text-xl font-bold hover:text-[#d0d0d0] transition-colors duration-200\"><a href=\"https:\/\/zabugorshiki.com\/en\/kumbelsu\/\" class=\"no-underline text-white hover:text-[#d0d0d0]\">Kumbelsu Gorge &#038; Lake 13: the Wild Route to Molodezhny Peak<\/a><\/h3><\/div><\/div><\/div><div class=\"flex-none w-[280px] sm:w-auto snap-center last:pr-4 sm:first:pl-0 sm:last:pr-0\"><div class=\"group bg-[#202020] rounded-xl hover:border-white\/[0.06] transition-all duration-300\"><div class=\"relative aspect-w-16 aspect-h-9 rounded-t-xl overflow-hidden bg-[#202020]\"><a href=\"https:\/\/zabugorshiki.com\/en\/tamgaly-tas\/\" class=\"block w-full h-full\" aria-label=\"Tamgaly-Tas: Buddha Carvings &#038; Climbing on the Ili River\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"w-full h-full object-cover transform group-hover:scale-105 transition-transform duration-500 my-0\" src=\"https:\/\/zabugorshiki.com\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/image19-1024x576.jpg?v=1785295641\" alt=\"Tamgaly-Tas: Buddha Carvings &#038; Climbing on the Ili River\" loading=\"lazy\"><div class=\"absolute inset-0 bg-gradient-to-t from-black\/30 to-transparent opacity-0 group-hover:opacity-100 transition-opacity duration-300\"><\/div><\/a><\/div><div class=\"p-4\"><h3 class=\"text-xl font-bold hover:text-[#d0d0d0] transition-colors duration-200\"><a href=\"https:\/\/zabugorshiki.com\/en\/tamgaly-tas\/\" class=\"no-underline text-white hover:text-[#d0d0d0]\">Tamgaly-Tas: Buddha Carvings &#038; Climbing on the Ili River<\/a><\/h3><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Two hours north of Almaty, where the Ili river cuts through desert steppe, the rocks of Tamgaly-Tas rise straight off the water &#8211; and they carry two entirely different claims to fame.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":0,"featured_media":3802,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15,12],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3801","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kazakhstan","category-hiking"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Climbing Grades Explained: the 1A-6B Alpine System (Almaty 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