Guided Climb of Peak Abaya (4,010 m) – Four-Thousander on the Southern Ridge

Peak Abaya (4,010 m) is a four-thousander reached via a 2A route along the southern ridge from Amangeldy Pass. Named after Abay Kunanbayev, the great Kazakh poet, the peak offers one of the most panoramic summits in the Tuyuk-Su cirque: from the top you see Karlytau, 28 Heroes-Panfilovtsy (4,120 m), Manshuq Mametova, Antikaynen, Amangeldy, Pioneer, Uchitel, and — dominating the skyline — Ordzhonikidze (4,410 m), the highest peak in the Maloe Almatinskoe gorge.

The route shares its approach with Khrishatogo and Amangeldy — Alpingrad → Parus → Cold Couloir → Amangeldy Pass — then diverges along the south ridge. Your team moves in simultaneous rope, traversing the multi-headed ridge with its exposed knife-edges. The first ascent route (NW ridge, 1929) was one of the earliest in the entire Tuyuk-Su area.